Wines from Sierra de Gredos

Gredos is one of the most interesting things to have happened in Spanish wine this century: old Garnacha vines at altitude on granite, west of Madrid, farmed by a small group of growers who largely rediscovered them.

The wines are the opposite of the stereotype — pale, fragrant, light on their feet, closer in spirit to the northern Rhône than to anything you would expect from central Spain.