Producer · Champagne, France

Gosset

Gosset is the oldest wine house in Champagne. Pierre Gosset, an alderman of the village of Aÿ, set up as a wine producer in 1584, centuries before the region's wines sparkled, and the house has carried on ever since. It remains independent, owned by the Renaud-Cointreau family of Cognac Frapin, and has been based in Epernay since 2009.

The style leans on long ageing and wines with real depth, made as much for the table as for the aperitif. Alongside the brut wines the house makes an extra dry rosé from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, a shade sweeter than brut, and it is a lovely oddity. That gentle touch of sweetness makes it one of the few Champagnes that genuinely suits pudding as well as a summer afternoon.

Winery at Épernay, Champagne · Chardonnay and Pinot Noir · £64.95 a bottle